Tennessee Mountain Stories

Thinkin’ About the old Lands

Way back in 2013 I shared a little poem here that I wrote about the land, the old home places, and the mountain ghost towns.  Now, as I sit here trying to pull together a myriad of thoughts about land on the Cumberland Plateau, those words come back to me.

There is a place I love to go, where mountains roll and wildflowers grow…

              This land is but my living dream, of the past to which I cling…

It’s stories told, a history wrote…

              Tis a balm to the soul where none is old and all are whole…

I’ve often said it seems like I can hear the whispered voices of ancestors who walked the paths and worked the fields – but maybe that sounds just a little crazy… Really, I guess I hear the stories we’ve repeated so many times.  They are stories that teach lessons and keep characters alive in our memories.  These great-great grandparents, uncles, aunts and distant cousins seem like old friends to me.  Sometimes I forget that I never knew many of them, because I know their stories so well.

And those stories are inseparable from the land.  Not too many years ago, one of my great uncles took a little walk across the farm he’d grown up on.  My Daddy continues to run cattle on that same land, so the fences are intact and the scrub brush is mostly kept at bay.  Still, he marveled at the changes – saplings are now great trees with nicks and carvings grown above his head.  Well-worn paths are now grass-covered and the animals have carved new ways to water and feed.  Yet the land is the same – the hills still roll and creeks still flow.  His parents and most of the siblings he’d known on that land were mostly gone – in fact, Uncle Cletus has since passed away too.  Still the land remains.  

So much of our modern culture has lost its connection to the land.  We’re in rented apartment buildings or on highways and city streets.  We work in buildings where we often can’t even see the blue sky.  Even our leisure time is often spent in city parks or public attractions.  I’ve written about a group of women headed out to pick wild greens in the early spring or hunting medicinal herbs.  We’ve seen pictures of a team of horses or mules that led farm families back and forth plowing a field or pulled them in the family wagon to church or into town on business.  And so many miles were covered on foot as young people walked to church, sometimes miles away, or family members walked to visit aging parents or adult siblings.  People walked in groups and enjoyed the trip as much as the destination.  They worked together and passed the long hours under the sun sharing memories or making plans.

It’s often easy to remember in black and white – so many old pictures from Appalachia look desolate and downright desperate.  Yet if the deep greens of grass and leaves were colored in, with the bright reds and yellows of wild flowers, the picture would be far more cheerful.  Dirty children in ragged clothes might be less pitiful and more delighted with a day of play. 

When you can walk those paths and see them in their natural brilliance, the life of the land somehow fills you – and even the stories of hard times are highlighted by love, joy, occasional successes and sweet memories.

Tupelo Homestead

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A couple of years ago I wrote here about a treasured landmark on the Plateau, the Cumberland Homesteads.  After a little research for that article, I knew that the New Deal plan that created our homesteads was repeated in dozens of other locations around the country.  The homes south of Crossville, Tennessee were built of indigenous material that give them a unique look among the eleven floor plans all covered with our Crab Orchard stone and paneled with knotty pine.  Somehow it’s hard to imagine homestead homes that don’t look like that. 

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Well a reader in Tupelo, Mississippi lives in an original homestead home that looks very different than ours.  She’s shared pictures of her lovely renovated house as well as an identical home that has not been restored and I just had to share them with all of you.

Using indigenous materials was ingenious for several reasons.  Certainly it was a cost effective decision especially when freighting materials across the country was more difficult in the 1930’s and probably much more expensive.  But it was also a secondary boost to the local economy as even more people were employed to harvest the materials.  So in Mississippi they have timber and plenty of it.  The first homes there are covered in wood siding – various types of spruce and pine are widely available in the state.  While the local stone continued inside the Tennessee homes, those in Mississippi incorporated brick.  In fact, the last ten homes built had a brick exterior. 

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I grew up among homes paneled with knotty pine and I love the look.   That’s what the Tennessee houses used throughout the interior.  With a plentiful supply of lumber in Mississippi I’m a little surprised to see a wall board in every interior picture of those homes. 

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While some of the houses in Mississippi have been moved (as my reader’s home was) and renovated for modern homes, they are largely owned by the National Park Service and were used for park personnel.  Sadly they now stand empty and decaying.  The Cumberland Homesteads Tower Association must be applauded for refusing that fate for our homestead!

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The project in Tennessee was much larger, with 250 homes built here compared to their 35.  Sheer percentages allow more of them to remain standing and thankfully most are still housing families just as they did eighty years ago.  And that’s the story of the renovated Tupelo home I’m showing you today.  The love that’s been poured into this home is obvious as you virtually walk its halls.  An original claw-footed tub sits in the small bathroom beckoning you to a long soak.  The screened porch was opened to a dining area with lots of light pouring in door and windows.  The new owner recovered every brick possible, cleaned them and re-built the fireplace.  Bordered by flowering plants and ferns the front porch screams Mississippi to me and I can practically feel the longed-for breeze on a hot Mississippi evening and taste sweet tea!

 

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